Updated November 2024.

While we were visiting Peru (October 2008) I bought this arpillera at the markets in Aguas Calientes, en route to Machu Picchu:

These delightful needlework pieces come in a range of sizes and complexity, and therefore, cost, but to a keen fabric artist like myself, this addition to my collection to walk past and admire every day was worth every peso, whatever it was. I often collect a locally crafted item on my travels, and bought a hand stitched wool table runner in Cuzco that lives on our dining table.

I have seen similar works from Cambodia and Vietnam, and just like this one, the subjects are depictions of aspects of daily life, or flora and fauna of the region.  At the time, I had no idea that arpilleras are social and political statements or expressions of concern, often embroidered by women who had been left in a financially precarious position by modern political movements.  Searching round on Wikepedia I found most information about arpilleras in Chile, but I’m assuming that as there have been many similarities in the history of Peru and Chile, these fabric art pieces have arisen for the same reasons, and under the same kind of social organisation to market them.

Every kind was available, but I thought this one was wonderful. It has not only flat stitchery but many little 3D forms which I’d call stumpwork  Up near the RH cloud in the top picture is sewn the word ‘mercado’ meaning market. Against a backdrop of the clear skies and bold clouds we experienced, a typical building from that part of the Andes, some of the plants, people dancing in indigenous dress, and the llamas you see everywhere is a crowded market scene. 3D fruit and veggies, meats, fabrics, shoes, clothes, sewing notions, flowers, baskets, jewellery, brooms, musical instruments and more, are all crowded onto the market area, just as in real life.

I love the dancing ficures. We went to a musical evening in Cuzco and enjoyed quite a number of folk dances, most of which were along set formation movements, and this is exactly what the figures are doing, accompanied by a pipe player, see upper left edge of this detail shot.