
Using the walking foot and a 3/8″ seam allowance as I did here, sew on, repeating all steps at each corner until you come to within about 6″ of where you began, and here let’s hope you were right in your estimate and have a few inches of strip left. Trim to leave a generous 1cm or about 5/8 ” seam allowance on each end UL – pin and sew. Flatten out seam allowance, refold, and check to see it lies flat against the front of the quilt; if necessary adjust the seam allowance to take up any slack or ease a little out. Refold and pin, sew along the seam allowance UR
LL Wherever there is a join in the binding it will be a bit thicker – so carefully cut a little of the seam allowance away in the zone of the join as shown (say about 1/16″) – to accomodate the extra thickness of the binding here as it is sewn down. Hand stitch down all round the edge on the back of the quilt. The corners need only a stitch or two at the base of the fold before starting on the next side.
The width of the binding can be varied – so, as it is double, if you want it to look 1/4″ wider you need to cut 1/2″ wider strip – and might need to adjust the seam allowance so that the edge of the quilt including batting is neither squashed nor too narrow leaving empty areas to go limp – experiment is all I can advise, although if you get Mimi’s book, from recollection there might be some tables of widths in there… but I can’t check that – my own copy is on a bookshelf on the other side of the world. I can’t emphasise too much the value of a sample or two before tackling the binding of your Family Heirloom or Award Winning quilt. This also looks wonderful done in silk or nylon organza using a very fine seam allowance…